Saturday, February 22, 2014

Anise Day 3.5

Alright, so finally I am done with Day 3 in the Anise companion.  This whole having a full time job and responsibilities thing is really getting in the way of my personal projects.  I feel like I always underestimate the time cutting is going to take me.  It seems so simple, lay the pattern on the fabric and cut.  But when there are four different types of material and lots of marks to transfer, it can get a little time consuming.

One of the first I have to say that I am loving about this endeavor is that I am working with materials that I haven't had a lot of experience with.  I really like this weft interfacing.  Weft is a combination of a woven and knit processes.  In it's current iteration it is giving my Anise coat front a little more body and shaping my collar.  Hooray for a shapely collar.

 This is a close up of the weft interfacing. 

A great aspect of having fusible interfacings on dark fabric is that you can transfer your markings to the interfacing and it makes them easier to see.


Another thing this project has that is new for me is a muslin underlining.  What you do with this muslin is you stitch it to its coordinating fabric pieces cut in the main fabric in the seam allowance.  This also helps to add structure to the coat.  One thing that the companion says to do is to cut out the darts in the muslin to reduce bulk.  Literally you just follow the lines and cut them away.  I will admit that I was nervous, but I went for it!


Once I had cut everything then I went ahead and ironed the weft interfacing to their coordinating parts.


This next part was really cool to me.  We cut an extra piece of weft in the space between the roll line and the seam allowance.  This makes the stand of the collar much more firm and made pressing the roll edge very easy.



I used my dress form to get a good shape on the collar. This was one of those moments in a sewing project where you see a little glimpse of the end product and I got really excited.



This part was admittedly a little bit of a pain in the ass.  I had to pin the layers of main fabric and underlining together and then stitch them within the seam allowance.  On the smaller side back pieces it was easy to make sure they were very well lined up, the larger pieces didn't go as perfectly, but they'll work.


 Little close on the awesomeness of being able to mark a light colored underlining and better see the markings!

Day 3, admittedly the one of the longest "days" in blogging history.  I am excited to move on to Day 4. hopefully without a Day 4.5.

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